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In a world where jeans and
t-shirts are everyday fare, it is difficult to imagine the intricacies of
dressing the Victorian woman. Many factors figured into the
voluminous layers, among them modesty, cleanliness and
practicality.
At the beginning of the
Victorian era, all clothing was hand-made. Because of this, dresses
were expensive, and only the wealthy could afford a large wardrobe.
The less fortunate wore cast-offs, clothing from second-hand shops, or
sewed their own. After the invention of the sewing machine in 1851,
the industry began to change. Not only was clothing less expensive
to produce, it was mass-produced, and by the end of the century,
ready-made dresses were available to the general public at department
stores. The wealthy, however, continued to buy their dresses
custom-made, the ultimate shopping spree a trip to Paris for a Charles
Worth creation.
A Victorian woman did not
simply throw on a gown over her slip and panties, though. There were
many layers to achieve the picture of fashion perfection. We'll
start at the beginning.
These steps varied little
over the nineteenth century after the invention of the crinoline in
1856. The shape of the crinoline changed, eventually becoming a mere
bustle at the back of the dress, and the corset transformed into varying
shapes, but the basic undergarments remained similar over the decades.
The First Layer--The Basics: Stockings
reached just above the knee. Stockings were usually black for
daytime wear and white or colored for evening. They were held up by
garters. By the end of the century, the garters were attached to the
corset. Cotton drawers went over the stockings. Drawers were
constructed as two overlapping flaps (one for each leg), leaving a
seamless crotch for a lady's toilette. A sleeveless knee-length
chemise completed the basic undergarments.
The Second Layer--Form and Function: A
corset, strengthened with steel or whalebone, pulled in a woman's waist
and supported her bustline. It fastened at the front, but long ties
in the back could adjust the tightness. Woman pulled them as tight
as possible to achieve a tiny waist, sometimes as much as four inches
smaller than their natural shape. By the end of the century, corsets
had built-in bust enhancers and fell well below the waist to shape the
hips also. The Crinoline was a flexible cage of steel which
supported the skirt. It collapsed for ease of sitting and storing,
but held the skirt into a perfect bell shape. This lightweight
contraption replaced the five or six petticoats a woman had to wear
previously to achieve the same effect, and at its height, was 18 feet in
circumference at the hem.
The Third Layer--Practicality: A Camisole
went over the corset. It served as a shield between the dress and
the woman's skin, protecting her expensive garment from perspiration and
oils. A simple petticoat covered the crinoline to protect the skirt
from the steel hoops, and to help the gown lay smooth over the form.
A fancier, embroidered petticoat was layered over the first one, the
design more intricate when the skirt hem bunched up to reveal the
petticoat.
The Fourth Layer--The Dress: Finally came
the gown. A proper woman wore a high neck and long sleeves during
the day. By dinner time, the neckline dipped, and for elaborate
balls, dresses were worn off the shoulder with a mere strap for a sleeve,
and necklines plunged to reveal more than just a glimpse of skin. To
save on cost, skirts and bodices for day wear were often
interchangeable. A woman could create a new look without having to
buy a new dress.
The Fifth Layer--Accessories: A Victorian
woman was never without gloves and bonnet. Styles varied over the
years, but she never left the house without either item. Women often
wore caps and gloves indoors as well. Half-boots with thicker soles
completed a day or walking outfit, while thin-soled kid slippers
accompanied the ball gown. Few examples of slippers are around today
because the soles were paper-thin, and often danced through by the end of
a busy evening. When venturing outdoors, a woman would wear either a
shawl or cape, and she carried a parasol to protect her skin from the
sun. Finally, a reticule, or small handbag, completed the
outfit. A lady would carry her perfume, handkerchief or fan in her
reticule.
Because dresses were so
expensive, a woman did what she could to protect them. Decorative
undersleeves could be slipped under the dress sleeve to just above the
elbow to protect hems. Fancier gowns which didn't allow for a
camisole, had shields sewn into the bodice to protect the material from
perspiration stains. Ruffles were sewn into the hems of outdoor
dresses. Even with the hem of the dress in front, they fell about
1/8th of an inch below the hem in back. The ruffle picked up the
worst of the mud and dirt from the street, and could be replaced much
easier than the expensive skirt.
Gowns and dresses were well
cared for, and because of the special preservation women used for their
sentimental garments, many gowns from the Victorian era are around today
in museums and antique shops, as well as private collections.
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